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California Life Magazine
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When Harry Met…

Here is an encapsulation of how it all started. About 53 years ago, Harry, the debonair actor, and young, done-a-zillion-things-already, Marilyn, had their first date. Harry revealed his dream about opening an upscale restaurant/hamburger joint, where his Hollywood buddies could hang out. Bells and whistles went off in Marilyn’s head. The next morning, completely out of character for the 1950’s, she actually called him and let loose with her entire restaurant game plan to Harry. He gulped, gulped again, then they were on their way. “Marilyn, Are You Sure You Can Cook?” he asked. Thus, it began…

Marilyn and Harry opened their first Hamburger Hamlet on the famous Sunset Strip in Los Angeles, with a closet size kitchen which boasted a two-burner hot plate. In 1987, after establishing and orchestrating a kingdom of 24 Hamlets, they sold the company for $33 million. Perhaps it was time to retire. Retire! Are you crazy? No way. They had been working non-stop for all these years. This year they fashioned Kate Mantilini in Beverly Hills, and bought back the Gardens on Glendon (former Hamlet Gardens) and have just opened the newest Kate Mantilini in Woodland Hills.

Royalty Was Born

KATE MANTILINI
“Kate Mantilini…My hangout in town!”
In 1987, when these two Los Angeles movers and shakers lavished their creative talents on Kate Mantilini in Beverly Hills, the result was stunning and castles in the sky were a reality. They have melded a 30 foot-ceiling-architectural design (which, by the way, won the Architects Award in that year) with a warm, glowing ambiance filled with light and harmony. Is it the subtle lighting, the space, the marvelous food, or the people-watching that create the magic in the air? Obviously, the combination is the magnet. Kate Mantilini represents the best of the Westside restaurants.
Whether you’re seated in the center hall or in a semi-private booth, this place has so much charisma and allure. The menu is bountiful, serving a massive selection of good old comfort food that makes you feel deep-down-good. Imagine, over your delectable Rotisserie Chicken or renowned Hamburger, being able to discreetly peek around and see your favorite stars. LA, being what it is, wear shades and a baseball cap and you might be mistaken for a celebrity yourself. Listen for the restrained whisper trickling through the air, “Who is that…?” Industry people make this their regular meeting spot.

Perhaps you will start your meal with the Creamed Pickled Herring, an amazing delicacy. Or whet your taste buds with the ultra fresh Oysters Rockefeller or the best Crab Cakes in the west. Some of their signature dishes will warm your very soul. Try the Ahi tuna. Exquisite – they must have just pulled the tuna out of the sea. Huge, pleasing salads will tempt you. We urge you to save room for the tantalizing desserts. You’ll want to cozy up with the Warm Bread Pudding, a concoction so perfect your eyes will roll. Warm Apple Pie with rum sauce is a snug fit on a cool evening. Fudge Layer Cake with a puddle (their words) of hot fudge and vanilla ice cream…Need we coax anymore? Not only is Kate Mantilini’s famous, but it’s THE place for late-night action and food cravings. The staff have all been here for years and it is clear they love working with the Lewis family. Kate Mantilini Restaurant will long be copied by others. You may discreetly celebrity watch, no blatant staring. Everyone does it subtlety under their lashes. We had to try breakfast. Oooweee. You will be over-spoiled no matter what you eat. Open every day, breakfast, lunch, dinner, with a special late-night menu until 1 a.m. on weekdays, and 2 a.m. on Fridays/Saturdays. 9101 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills, (310) 278-3699. The new Kate Mantilini is at Warner Center, Woodland Hills, 5921 Owensmouth Avenue, (818) 348-1985.

GARDENS ON GLENDON
The town of Westwood, conjures up images of a hubbub of shops and shopping, first run movies, eats, bookstore browsing, people watching, UCLA. Here are instructions for dealing with Westwood. Get there. Park. Plan your time so that when you escape the crowds and duck into the Gardens On Glendon, it is the last thing you do that evening. This is a place you will want to linger, loiter. Life moves fast in Los Angeles, so you will desire to be in a place where time stops for a moment.
Superbly situated, luxurious yet unpretentious, the Gardens On Glendon beckon with its verdant backdrop, and magical setting. Everyone loves it here from entertainment and business barons to students, voyeurs, celebrities, locals and travelers. With its remarkable indoor/outdoor feel, you will love the character and charm of the Gardens, where 1930’s brick and contemporary chic fuse beautifully. It’s a gorgeous spot. Are you planning a party? Do it here, it’s sure to impress. Many famous people have their soirees here. There are a number of dining alcoves, each with its own appeal and ambiance. In the main room/garden room, the huge open atrium shows off the 30 foot ficus tree and beautiful dining room.

Whether you live in the Los Angeles area or just visiting, make it an imperative to try one of one of these fine restaurants. Just think of it as your kitchen away from home. Relax and enjoy. So fresh, and delightful. This is the kind of place that you could just make a meal on the tasty appetizers. You must try the Guacamole, made tableside, of course. Baby-back pork ribs anyone? Look around to make sure that no one watching, then lick every juicy morsel off the bones and your fingers. The grilled spicy salmon is an incurable treat, some of the best salmon we’ve ever had. Fish and Chips anyone? Not in any way ordinary. A light, creamy ending to all this divinity is the silken-sweet rice pudding. You would expect Gardens on Glendon to be splendid. Service here is a cut above. The Gardens is sumptuous, yet very comfortable and therein lies its secret. You just won’t want to leave. That good. Open every day for lunch and dinner, and Sunday brunch. Website www.gardensonglendon.com. 1139 Glendon Avenue, Westwood, (310) 824-1818.


Santa Monica
Valentino's Restaurant



Diners don’t happen into Valentino by chance. Devotees return for sumptuous cuisine paired with superb wines, neophytes seek the promise. Both are rewarded in a setting that entertains the palate and comforts the soul.
Piero Selvaggio, proprietor and owner, describes Valentino as an embrace. His philosophy and commitment to authenticity encompass the best of wine and artisan cheesemakers, purveyors of the finest meats, poultry and fish, luscious produce, and delicacies such as rare, seasonal white truffles and exceptional varieties of Prociutto. The restaurant itself has an understated elegance that encourages lingering a while a a striking bouquet of vibrant flowers just inside the entrance gives way to soft lighting in the dining rooms and muted frescoes adorning the walls whisper of a more peaceful world. Piero has welcomed guests into this embrace for over 35 years now at Valentino.
The phenomenon of Valentino began as a friendly trattoria patterned after those in Italy, where customers didn’t have to study the menu but could chat about it with their server instead. The original approach was casual but the ingredients and execution were superlative. After a favorable review in the Los Angeles Times, Valentino quickly grew popular, rapidly overcoming that tenuous period when its visionary is long on enthusiasm and dedication but short on resources and experience. Piero reflects on the early success that fueled the evolution of Valentino: “We were perfectly timed with the culinary revolution in America, and serious about food when people were becoming serious about it. At that time, Americans considered heavy sauces and rubbery cheeses typical Italian fare. We introduced genuine products made by true artisans a aged balsamic, rich burrata, Parmigiano Reggiano, special pressings of virgin olive oil.” The Valentino table stimulated an appetite for ingredients of the highest order.
As Valentino transformed itself from trattoria into fine dining establishment, so its wine cellar grew. For three decades, Piero has observed a slow but steadily increasing respect and demand for Italian and California wines. “Fine wines are the perfect accompaniment to food, and we happily participate in this popular pastime.” Piero’s passion for wine drives the notion of ‘pastime’ into the realm of adventure. The wine cellar currently contains over 100,000 bottles representing 2,500 labels and is, according to the Wine Spectator magazine, consistently one of the 10 best wine lists in the US and among the most comprehensive in the world. There is assistance for those daunted by a wine list the size of a large metro area telephone book. A request for suggestions may yield the modestly-priced and supple Rubino Merlot from Umbria, or Ben Rye, an enchanting dessert wine with the aroma of apricots, from an island near Sicily and made from Zibbibbo raisins, the sweetest in the world.
To many clientele, Valentino is an expression of life’s pleasures. Fine food and wine, tasteful ambiance and impeccable service make for a deeply personal experience. It is at once serene and aesthetic, and completely intentional. Behind the tranquil performance enjoyed by his guests each evening, Piero orchestrates hundreds of details: magnificent creations at the hands of Executive Chef Stephan Samson, appropriate wines expertly uncorked and poured into the correct glasses, deft replacement of fresh silverware throughout the meal. Piero unites us with Italian artisan pasta makers, who age their product as it dries for two days in special chambers, by including their names in the preparations listed on the menu; he transports us across continents and across time to sample the celebrated and obscure vintages in his vast collection of wines. He instills a refinement and grace among his staff with the compassion of a father-figure and the power of a virtuoso. He greets guests at the door with eyes sparkling, ready to extend them a brief, delectable respite for an hour or so, or many courses into an entire evening.
Piero acknowledges that Valentino has made a statement in over 35 years, extraordinary longevity for a restaurant. “At our age, there are cardinal rules. We have to maintain our theme and level of quality so we can continue to meet expectations. We must also be ready to make changes, always with the goal of improving, regardless of how our business ebbs and flows, whether our delivery is to 50 people or 500. This demands a chef who is constantly inspired, and a strong team that can weather the storms, like changes in the economy, that can challenge a fine establishment.”

Chef Stephan Samson is a recent addition to the team. After 4 years at Piero’s more casual Posto in the San Fernando Valley, he was made the new Executive Chef at Valentino following the departure of Angelo Auriano. Regulars will recognize the traditional seasonal menu, but may also choose from Chef Samson’s ‘Specials of the Day’ with dishes inspired by his Italian-Californian ancestry and the best of the renowned Santa Monica Farmer’s Market.
On a recent visit to Valentino we were tempted by the Chef’s Tasting Dinner menu a five heady courses including Maryland Soft Shell Crab Parmigiana and Venison Tenderloin with Walnuts and Apple Mostarda but opted instead to order somewhat lighter fare from both the Seasonal and ‘Specials of the Day’ menus. A Super Tuscan called Perlato Di Redigafi was decanted at the table as our waiter surprised us with a plate of thinly-sliced and deep-fried Parmagiano ‘chips’.
A tiny vessel of soup arrived for each of us a a chilled puree of fresh orange, sweet onion and pepperoncini with a dollop of crabmeat set atop a bit of onion marmalade in the center, and this was followed by a single ravioli stuffed with monkfish and ricotta. Teased yet primed for our appetizers, we enjoyed the Proscuitto Di Parma “Principe,” paper-thin and delicate enough to melt-in-your mouth, served with Farmers Market Melon, and Poached Figs with Culatello, a rare and unimportable variety of Prociutto made by a third generation macellaio (butcher) Piero found in New York. Our pasta course was the spectacular Spaghetti alla Chitarra con Ricotta e Zucchini (the pasta is reminiscent of guitar strings), a luscious and delightful balance of textures. I selected the Piccione Cotto A Scottadito con Frutti Secchi Al Vino Rosso as my entree, a succulent grilled squab glazed in a sauce of Chianti and dried fruit; and my husband chose the Filetto Di Manzo al Vino Cotto Pugliese, beef filet cooked medium-rare to order, with an intense sauce of red wine must, the fruity skin of grapes remaining in the wine after fermentation. Both were served with creamy mashed potatoes and vegetables cooked perfectly al dente: carrots, green and wax beans, cauliflower and brussels sprouts. I surrendered to a sublime dessert of milk chocolate and vanilla creme brule served in a flaky pastry shell, and while enjoying excellent coffee, we were each treated to a refreshing glass of muscat, pale yellow, lightly sweet, fruity and crisp nice finish to a wonderful meal.
We lost track of time that night. We enjoyed dinner for 3 hours. Nothing was rushed nor were we impatient. There have been times when we lingered even longer a when the Tasting Dinner was the order of the evening. We’ve been well-pampered by Captain Stefano Ongaro, Maitre D’ Giuseppe Mollica and the other staff, all of whom make the tremendous effort occurring in the wings transparent to us. This is Piero’s objective, of course, just as he brings us the piquant finale of soil, climate, time and diligence created under the winemaker’s hand.
Piero remains a visionary. Giorgio, his new casual restaurant in the Mandalay Bay Hotel in Las Vegas opens this fall, yet his expectations for Valentino are undiminished: “We’ve aged gracefully why deny our age? Our knowledge and experience give us a comforting sense of security. At the same time, we revisit our philosophy and renew our commitment to inspiring food and wine every day. This is our joy and fulfillment.”
At the close of the evening, Piero bids us farewell and we re-enter our familiar world with heightened awareness that defies precise description. He refers to this modestly as “a more educated palate.” Fortunately, such higher learning may be embraced again and again at Valentino.


Chef Stephan Sampson’s Spaghetti alla Chitarra con Ricotta e Zucchini

Ingredients:
1 cup ricotta, drained (overnight if necessary depending on water content)
Pinch grated nutmeg
Salt and white pepper to taste
4 assorted zucchini (fresh from the Farmer’s Market, if possible), thinly sliced
1/2 sweet onion, thinly sliced
1/2 cup grated pecorino cheese
2 basil leaves, torn into small pieces
Pinch crushed red pepper
2 cups canola oil
1/2  lb. Spaghetti alla Chitarra (available at Italian specialty grocers, or other favorite long pasta)
12 small cherry tomatoes, halved (red and yellow for color)
Drizzle of extra virgin olive oil
Season drained ricotta with salt, white pepper and nutmeg, pass twice through a fine sieve and set aside. Slice zucchini, using a mandolin if available. Heat 2 cups of canola oil to 400 degrees F and fry zucchini in small batches until golden, about 5 minutes. Season zucchini with salt. Cook pasta in abundant, salted water until desired doneness. While pasta is cooking, sauted onion in a pan over medium heat. Add a pinch of red pepper, a pinch of salt, the torn basil leaves and a cup of the fried zucchini. Wet with a bit of broth or pasta water. Add the cooked and drained Spaghetti alla Chitarra to the zucchini mixture, adding 1/4 cup of the pecorino cheese, and toss. Lightly heat the ricotta over low heat or in the microwave. To serve, spoon about 2 tablespoons of the ricotta to cover the bottom of a plate or bowl. Serve the pasta on top of the ricotta. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, another sprinkling of pecorino and garnish with the tomatoes. Serves 4.